Top 10 Beauty Myths Debunked by an Expert | My Soho Times

Sunscreen contouring, DIY chemical peels, using chilli as a lip plumper, ‘product dumping’ (layering multiple strong actives in one routine) – our feeds are flooded with viral hacks and influencer “advice” masquerading as expertise. It might rack up views, but on your face it can mean irritation, a wrecked skin barrier, and even increased sensitivity to the sun. Before you follow the next TikTok craze into your bathroom, hit pause: in this science-led Q&A, cosmetic chemist Shivani Mistry separates fact from fiction and busts 10 of the biggest beauty myths.

1. I should avoid moisturiser if I have oily skin

FALSE. Oily skin produces excess sebum, making it appear shiny and prone to clogged pores, yet it can still become dehydrated. The skin’s main function is to act as a protective barrier, and moisturising helps maintain this. Moisturisers typically contain 3 key components: emollients (soften and smooth skin), occlusives (lock in moisture), and humectants (attract water to hydrate skin). For oily skin, lightweight products rich in humectants and lighter occlusives, such as gel-cream textures, tend to work best.

Shivani’s top picks for oily skin types:

• BYOMA Moisturising Gel Cream
• TIRTIR Ceramic Cream Light
• La Roche-Posay Effaclar MAT+ Moisturiser Oily Skin

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2. Teenage acne-prone skin requires daily exfoliation

FALSE. Acne is caused by 4 main factors: excess sebum production, clogged pores, overgrowth of Cutibacterium acnes bacteria, and inflammation. Chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid (a BHA) can help by shedding dead skin cells, penetrating oil-filled pores, preventing the build-up of excess sebum, and reducing inflammation. Azelaic acid is another gentle option with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory benefits. However, teenage skin already has a fast cell turnover, so exfoliating once a week is usually enough. Over-exfoliation can disrupt the skin barrier and worsen irritation.

Shivani’s top picks for teenage acne-prone skin:

• CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser
• Coats Gentle Hydrating Toning Milk
• Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

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3. I only need to wear sunscreen on sunny days

FALSE. Sunscreen helps reduce the amount of damaging UV radiation that reaches your skin, and as UV rays can pass through clouds and glass, daily protection is essential. UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin, damaging collagen and elastin and causing premature ageing. UVB rays directly damage DNA and are strongly linked to sunburn and skin cancer. Both types contribute to cumulative skin damage, uneven pigmentation, and immune suppression.

Shivani’s favourite SPF products for everyday wear:

• d’Alba – Waterfull Essence Sun Cream SPF50+ PA++++
• La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+ Sun Cream
• Biore UV Aqua Rich Water Essence Sunscreen SPF 50

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4. I can mix SPF into my moisturiser or foundation for a more even application

FALSE. Regardless of the SPF you use, you won’t get adequate protection if it’s applied incorrectly. Sunscreen works best when applied in an even, undisturbed layer directly onto the skin. Mixing it with other products can dilute the formula, reduce its stated protection, and create gaps in the protective film. SPF should be applied after skincare and before makeup. For full protection, use the recommended amount, allow it to absorb before layering other products on top, and reapply throughout the day.

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5. Kitchen ingredients are great for skin

IT DEPENDS. Using kitchen ingredients for DIY skincare can be convenient and cost-effective, but it requires caution. While some ingredients may be gentle and nourishing, like olive oil, others can irritate or harm skin, like lemon juice, which is highly acidic. Although many DIY skincare recipes are popular, household ingredients are not specifically formulated for safe and effective use on the skin. Their strength, stability, and pH levels are not controlled, which can increase the risk of irritation. Professionally formulated products are tested for safety and skin compatibility.

Shivani’s favourite food-inspired skincare:

• Neal’s Yard Remedies Honey & Orange Face Scrub
• Elemis Superfood Facial Oil
• Kiehl’s Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energising Radiance Masque

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6. If it tingles or burns, it’s working

FALSE. A mild tingling sensation can sometimes occur with active ingredients like acids, but burning, stinging, or discomfort is often a sign of irritation. When the skin barrier becomes compromised, it can lead to redness, sensitivity, inflammation, and even breakouts. Effective skincare should support and strengthen the skin, not cause damage. Consistent results come from using appropriate, well-formulated products suited to your skin type, not from how intense they feel on application.

Shivani’s favourite products featuring gentle but effective actives:

• The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum
• AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
• The Ordinary Natural Moisturising Factors + Beta Glucan

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7. I can layer multiple actives for faster results

FALSE. The goal is synergy, not stacking. Strong actives work best when spaced out or paired with barrier-supporting ingredients. Overloading the skin with acids and retinoids can cause irritation, reduced efficacy, or counterproductive reactions. How deeply an ingredient penetrates depends on its chemical properties, formulation, and how it’s applied, which determines how it interacts with the skin. As a formulator, I focus on compatibility, skin tolerance, and barrier support rather than stacking everything at once.

Shivani’s favourite barrier-supporting products to pair with actives:

• Neal’s Yard Remedies Oat & Ceramide Barrier Repair Cream
• Torriden SOLID-IN Ceramide All Day Essence
• La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+

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8. I can shrink my pores with the right skincare product

FALSE. Pores are tiny openings connected to hair follicles and sebaceous glands that release sebum to keep skin lubricated. Oily skin and enlarged pores are closely linked, and pores can appear larger with age as collagen and elastin weaken. Dead skin cells and excess oil can clog pores, stretching them and making them look more visible. While you can’t “shrink” pores, ingredients like niacinamide can help regulate oil production, and retinoids or chemical exfoliants can keep pores clear and support collagen, making them appear smaller and less noticeable.

Shivani’s top picks to help reduce the appearance of pores:

• Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0
• Medik8 Crystal Retinal
• Beauty Of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide

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9. I can fix my dry skin by drinking plenty of water

FALSE. Although drinking plenty of water is important for overall health, dry skin is usually caused by a compromised skin barrier and a lack of lipids, not just a lack of water inside the body. When the barrier is weakened, more moisture escapes from the skin, leading to tightness and flakiness, so repairing the skin barrier is key. Improve dry skin with topical moisturisation using humectants, emollients, and occlusives to attract and lock in moisture.

Shivani’s top picks for dehydrated skin:

• TIRTIR Milk Skin Toner
• LANEIGE Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Acid Cream Moisturiser

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10. I can train my hair to be less oily by washing it less

FALSE. Oil production is controlled by your sebaceous glands and influenced by genetics, hormones, and scalp type, not by how often you shampoo. When you reduce washing, oil may temporarily build up, and over time your scalp might feel more balanced simply because you’re tolerating the oil better. However, you’re not changing how much sebum is produced. Using a gentle shampoo, properly cleansing the scalp, and choosing lightweight conditioners can help manage oil without over-stripping or irritating the scalp.

Shivani’s favourite gentle haircare:

• Christophe Robin Purifying Scalp Scrub with Sea Salt
• Maria Nila Head & Hair Heal Shampoo + Conditioner Duo
• Neal’s Yard Remedies Invigorating Seaweed Shampoo

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Written by Julia Ferrari @freshbeautyfix | This article is part of The Spring Beauty Edit, celebrating the rituals in beauty, the brands, and boutiques that keep our neighbourhood glowing.

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