Taste of Savoy: Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill pays homage to the past | My Soho Times

‘This Beautiful revival of the Savoy Grill is everything I hoped it would be and  more’ – Gordon Ramsay

Ahead of its 125th anniversary, earlier this year, the Savoy Grill closed its doors to undergo a renovation envisioned by Gordon Ramsay and his restaurant group. The iconic dining establishment in Central London recently reopened with a transformation that captures the elegance of the 1920s Hollywood Regency style, while paying homage to the restaurant’s rich theatrical history. Our editor Kai Lutterodt shares more from her Taste of Savoy lunch date that held more meaning than expected.

The Savoy Grill has an illustrious history that dates back to its opening in 1899, making it a true icon in the British culinary scene. Situated inside the prestigious Savoy Hotel, the restaurant was established by the visionary Richard D’Oyly Carte, renowned for his contributions to the world of theatre.

Editor Kai Lutterodt on a ‘father-daughter’ lunch date with dad, Kwaku | My Soho Times

It’s not an everyday occurrence to receive a fancy invitation as lunch at the Savoy in my inbox, so I took advantage of this opportunity to indulge in a memorable “Father-Daughter” date, ensuring its place in my series dedicated to precious moments formed as I rekindle my relationship with my dad (mostly through food!).

Since I was the first to arrive, I had the advantage of selecting my preferred seating choice. My attention was drawn to the red-wine-colored plush velvet booths located towards the back of the restaurant, offering the perfect vantage point of both the bar and the comings and goings of the guests. As this was my first time visiting, I have no basis of comparison to the former interior. The ambiance, however, exuded a timeless sophistication, reminiscent of the Gatsby era rather than a generic contemporary feel that might be expected of a modern renovation.

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An illustration of Winston Churchill hung above our seat. I later learned from Thierry Tomasin, the personable restaurant director, that I was seated in the very spot where the former British Prime Minister would often dine. The Savoy Grill has long been a celebrity favorite and boasts feeding legendary names such as Charlie Chaplin, Errol Flynn, Elizabeth Taylor, and prominent members of the Royal Family. However, it was the sentimental ‘Savoy Stories‘ Thierry shared, filled with anecdotes from regular folks rather than celebrities, that reinforced the value of this place. It isn’t just about the meal, but rather about the memories formed.

What made this occasion even more significant was the personal connection it held: my grandfather, a successful doctor and businessman in both the UK and Ghana, frequented the Savoy more than half a century ago. Recollections of my late Aunt Marian’s stories about his opulent lifestyle and her own role as his dedicated secretary (she ditched nursing school to become his secretary and got a taste of that fancy lifestyle herself) added a deep layer of sentimental value to my visit.

Is it too cliché to say ‘everything on the Taste of Savoy menu was delicious‘? Because it really was! I’m not a food critic by any means; however, I come from a line of good cooks, so I know what tastes good (though, if cooking is genetic, it was lost on me!).

The oysters were among my favorites, and I could have easily eaten a dozen or more of them and happily ticked off ‘Dine at The Savoy Grill‘ from the bucket list. Well, that was before I tried the Arnold Bennett smoked haddock soufflé (a  nod to the famous omelette Arnold Bennett invented in the Grill in 1929) and the creamy, dreamy Montgomery cheddar sauce it swam in. Despite its seemingly modest appearance, this soufflé managed to surpass all expectations. I’ve watched enough cooking shows to know that making a soufflé is an art in itself, and the critics never seem to be impressed by anyone’s. This dish is one that, had I been ordering from the à la carte menu, I might have glanced over without a second thought. However, as it was gently placed on the table before us, it stood with gracious wobble, and not a trace of deflation. Each scoop revealed a remarkably light and airy texture. I was taken aback to see my dad particularly enjoying the accompanying sauce, velvety and decadently rich, as much as I was. Despite its seemingly modest appearance, this soufflé managed to surpass both our expectations. I’ll probably never look at another soufflé again without comparison, and the stakes are now very high.

Since I’m not a big meat eater (more of a ‘flexitarian‘), dad thoroughly enjoyed his classic Beef Wellington which was served with a creamy mashed puree, tenderstem broccoli (which I stole a few off his plate), drizzled with a glossy red wine jus. His meat was ordered ‘well done’, and that goes for the taste too! I opted for the Dover sole on the à la carte menu. It was highly enjoyable, soft and flaky, cooked impeccably well. I look forward to dessert, yet the fact that I could have happily ended the meal with another savoy course is telling to how good it was. If you do however have a sweet craving to fulfil, The Savoy Grill Eclair with raspberry, vanilla and lime is a comforting finale to your unforgettable dining experience.

The cocktails we had were in keeping with paying homage to the past; A lady Sour for me (a twist on Alfred Hitchcock’s favourite cocktail, White Lady), and The Churchill for dad.

I asked Thierry to sign and date my copy of the tasting menu. If I ever have the pleasure of returning to the Savoy Grill, I hope I get to reenact the same culinary experience I had… and who knows, perhaps next time instead of my dad, it will be with a different significant individual – my prospective life partner (where is he already?)!

Written by Kai Lutterodt @the.soho.girl | Photo credit: My Soho Times

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