With the Summer Olympic Games Paris (26 July 2024 – 11 August 2024) fast approaching, Nicholas Cox delves into the deep-rooted French connection closer to home. Soho offers a taste of France right in the heart of London through history and today’s contemporary restaurants. Bon appétit!
When writing about Soho in 1720, John Strype, the historian and vicar of Leyton noted, “the abundance of French people”. They were Calvinist Protestants, known as Huguenots. Their presence in Soho dates from the early 1680s when they took possession of a chapel in long-vanished Hog Lane close to Denmark and Greek Streets. The Huguenots were assimilated into the local population well before the next wave of French refugees arrived after the revolution of 1789. Their presence in Soho can still be seen in the L’Église Protestante Française de Londres on Soho Square. French is frequently heard on Soho’s streets today, proving that Soho still welcomes Francophones to the ‘French Quarter’ of London. This long and ongoing association with France makes Soho the best place in London to experience authentic French cuisine. I lived in Paris for two years, so I’ve experienced the real thing. Here are my top recommendations for authentic French restaurants in Soho.
(Please be advised that menus and prices may vary. We recommend checking with the restaurant for the current price list).
Authentic French Restaurants in Soho
Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal
On the 1st Floor of the Hotel Cafe Royal, this standalone restaurant opened in 2022. Featuring Dilling’s modern take on traditional French gastronomic cuisine, this intimate space overlooks the curvature of Regent Street. The perfect setting to indulge in an exceptional exercise of sheer pleasure, this fine dining experience comes with two Michelin stars! The tasting menu prices range from £125 (Saturday five-course lunch menu), wine pairings are available from £145 per person, and the cheapest bottle of Mâcon Rouge will set you back £67. I’ve made this my top recommendation on the assumption that someone else is picking up the bill, if not then move swiftly on!
68 Regent St, W1B 4DY
Gauthier Soho
French gastronomy without using animals! Right in the heart of Soho is this charming regency townhouse, offering intimate, formal dining spread over three floors. Alexis Gauthier’s tasting menus showcase classic French dishes which are all completely vegan. There’s a good value early evening ‘Petit Dîner’ 5 course set menu available from Tuesday to Saturday at 5pm, £95 per person plus wine pairing for £75.
21 Romilly Street, W1D 5AF
L’Escargot Restaurant
Soho’s oldest restaurant is housed in a Georgian townhouse which dates from 1741. Georges Gaudin established his restaurant in 1896 and a kitsch effigy of a moustachioed Gaudin jauntily riding a snail twice his size, with the motto “slow but sure”, is displayed outside. The restaurant reopened in May of this year after a sudden closure in February caused by financial administration and the need for premises refurbishment. I haven’t eaten there since it re-opened but I’m told that it’s as good as ever and it remains dog friendly. The 2 course Prix fixe is available from 12-3pm & 5-7pm for a very reasonable £24, allow another £32 for a bottle of Le Raconteur, Cabernet Sauvignon.
48 Greek St, W1D 4EF
Brasserie Zédel
Now a grand French brasserie, it was originally the basement of the Regent Palace Hotel which some of us remember as the Atlantic Bar and Grill in the ‘80s and ‘90s. The art deco and beaux arts fittings were painstakingly refurbished and, where necessary, details were recreated according to archived original drawings. I eat here whenever I visit the Crazy Coqs Jazz Club in the same building. There is a basic 2 course Prix fixe for £ 16.95, but I’d recommend the Plâts du Jour for £19.95 with a bottle of Vin Rouge Maison for £27.95.
20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED
The French House
Anyone who thinks they know Soho has drunk in “The French”, but how many of us have eaten upstairs? It wasn’t until 1992 that chef couple Margot and Fergus opened the beautiful little dining room upstairs, a traditionally decorated space with rustic wooden furniture, black and white photos, and a large gold-framed mirror to make the cosy room feel bigger. The short menu changes daily and pays homage to classic French cuisine. Do be aware that they use a very literal definition of “classic French” so expect a lot of offal on the menu including chicken livers, calves’ brains, and braised ox cheek. Those with a more anglicised palate should note that steak night is Thursdays. It’s open for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday 12:00 – 3:00. In the evenings they offer two sittings at 6/6:15 and 8:15/8:30. An 8oz rump steak served with frites, green salad and horseradish is £24, and a bottle of Réserve de Patron Rouge is another £22.
49 Dean St, W1D 5BG
Randall & Aubin
Launched in 1996, this brasserie specialises in seafood. From its roots as a Victorian butcher’s shop to finding itself at the epicentre of Soho’s renaissance, Randall & Aubin have always embraced the old and the new; 18th century chandeliers from Paris share ceiling space with a giant, glittering disco ball, which so perfectly reflects the fun-loving, light-hearted atmosphere that makes this such a unique dining experience. The grilled line-caught tuna with roast Mediterranean vegetables, feta cheese, rocket & olive tapenade is excellent value at £22. I prefer white wine with fish, so I’d choose the Château de la Bretesche Muscadet for £35.
16 Brewer St, W1F 0SQ
Café Boheme
Where Old Compton Street meets Greek Street, Café Bohéme offers laid-back bonhomie, inspired by the 19th-century French poets who used to meet on Old Compton Street. This bistro boasts a classy mosaic floor, leather seating and a golden matte brass centre bar. The live jazz in the afternoons from 3.00pm to 5.30pm, and the al-fresco dining give it a Parisian feel and as you listen to the music and watch the street theatre of Old Compton Street, you could believe that you were in the Marais district of Paris. Go for a late lunch to catch the jazz, I’d recommend the Bavette, frites, & dijonnaise for £19 which qualifies you for a complimentary glass of wine or beer – which won’t last until the music finishes, so take the beer as an apéritif and continue with a bottle of Maison Vincent Languedoc for £29.50.
13 Old Compton St, W1D 5JQ
Pierre Victoire & Prix Fixe Brasserie
Both located on iconic Dean Street, these sister restaurants are loved for their affordable fixed-price menus, daily specials and a la carte French classics. The décor is very rustic and authentic, adding to the charm, but most importantly, the food is great. Come for low-key lunch meetings, cheap dates and to wine and dine in comfort before hitting the Soho bar scene. The two course Prix Fixe Menu is £17.90 for lunch until 4 pm every day, or £20.90 for pre-theatre dinner until 6.30 pm Sunday – Wednesday, and 6.00 pm Thursday -Saturday. Choose Confit of Duck for your main to avoid the steak extra cost supplements and wash it down with a bottle of Carignan Blend, Cuvée La Cloche for £17.95, or enquire about their monthly special Prix Fixe selection of premium wines by the 50cl carafe.
5 Dean St, W1D 3RQ / 39 Dean St, W1D 4PU
Blanchette
Tucked down a Soho side street, it’s a cosy, rustic French bistro with Art Nouveau tiled walls and exposed brickwork, bentwood bar stools, and shabby chic cabinets lifted straight out of a Provençal farmhouse, all set off with artfully chaotic arrangements of wildflowers. It’s run by three French brothers with the aim of creating a convivial atmosphere surrounding good food and drink. The simple 2 course Lunch & Pre theatre set menu costs £19.50 plus £33 for a Bergerie De La Bastide Languedoc.
9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR
Photography by Kai Lutterodt @the.soho.girl
Written by Nicholas Cox @njcoxx
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