7 of the Best: From Bar Italia to Backstreet Gems – Soho’s Indie Coffee Scene | My Soho Times

Gillian Smith embarks on a (short) grand tour of seven standout independent coffee spots in Soho, each with its own story and brew worth savouring…

From Enlightenment-Era Coffee Houses to Today’s Indie Scene

I’m pretty sure I’m not alone here, but waking up and smelling the coffee has to be my favourite part of the morning. That does tend to mean someone else in the household has actually made said coffee, thereby allowing me to just mooch into the kitchen and drink it—but I’m sure you catch my drift.

London lore has it that the average citizen downs 767 cups of coffee a year. While that figure feels oddly specific, it translates to just over two cups a day. Call me caffeinated and confused, but that actually seems a little conservative. After all, in our great city, where you’re supposedly never more than six feet from a rat (thankfully now disputed), you’re almost always just steps away from a cup of Joe. Much better.

For business to be booming as much as it clearly is, some of us must be drinking far more than two cups a day. London, and Soho in particular, has form. Coffee houses abounded in 17th and 18th century London, with the great, the good and the good-for-nothing gathering to discuss the pressing issues of the day at The Turk’s Head on Gerrard Street or the Grecian, off the Strand. Arguably, the Age of Enlightenment would’ve been much slower to dawn without Sir Isaac Newton and Samuel Johnson sharpening their wits on a steady stream of caffeine. Scribbling pamphlets on the human condition into the night requires some serious insomnia juice.

Fast forward a couple of centuries, and whether you’re planning your magnum opus, browsing the shops, meeting friends or simply heading to work, chances are you’ll be needing a coffee—whatever form you prefer—to get you there. From hand-crafted cappuccinos to a straightforward black Americano, here are seven of the best independent Soho coffee shops to satisfy even the most discerning of tastebuds.

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1. BAR ITALIA

21 Frith Street, London W1D 4RN

The one, the only, the original—Bar Italia leads the pack. It first opened its doors in 1949 and remains a local gem. A classic Italian café, opened – and still run – by the Polledri family, it’s a cool throwback to an era of Vespas and headscarves. Night owls know the place well (it only closes for a few hours a day), so you can sit with your cappuccino and tramezzini surrounded by red and white formica and check out the celeb photos covering every inch of wall space whenever you want. And of course, join in the caffeine-fuelled fun when the footie is on. 

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2. FLAT WHITE

17 Berwick Street, London W1F 0PT

If you’re looking for lively, look no further. Flat White on Berwick Street (itself a hive of delicious food-based market activity) is the place to go if you want to expand your waistline by way of some excellent banana bread, as well as imbibe some special beans. Credited with introducing the flat white to Soho in 2005 – clue being in the name of course – it also boasts a range of short blacks, quart blacks, macchiatos, mochas and lattes. Go for the vibe and drink your fill.

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3. LONDON GRAND COFFEE

11 Warwick Street, London W1B 5NA

It may be the new kid on the block, relatively speaking, but London Grand Coffee has been punching far above its weight since its inception last year. Situated on tranquil Warwick Street, close to Regent Street and Carnaby, the shop has already amassed a loyal following of regular office workers. Unsurprising, as the carefully curated single-origin beans produce the perfect cappuccino – and the rest of course! With Colombian, Brazilian and Rwandan already on offer, speciality coffees from South India are also in the works, so watch this space. In the meantime, treat yourself to an Indian-inspired Thandai or the caramel dream that is a BS Frappé. Give them a follow on Instagram for your daily fix of coffee inspo @london.grand.coffee!

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4. ALGERIAN COFFEE STORES

52 Old Compton Street, London W1D 4PB

Algerian Coffee Stores isn’t a coffee shop in the sit-down sense of the word, although you can grab a takeaway, but for sure it is the epicentre of all things caffeinated in Soho. This amazing store, which first opened its doors in 1887 (at the same address, astonishingly) is a leading supplier of coffees, teas and everything in-between. Bags and sacks are stacked floor to ceiling and if you have trouble finding a particular blend, there’s no doubt you’ll be able to lay your hands on it here. They’ll even sell you a domestic coffee maker to make all your caffeinated dreams come true in your own home.

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5. HIDEAWAY COFFEE

7 Farrier’s Passage, London W1D 7DP

If peace and quiet is what you crave along with your beverage, then look no further than the Hideaway. Tucked away in a scenic courtyard between Brewer Street and Smith’s Court, it’s the perfect place to sit outside with a delicious latte, a tasty pastry and a good book. These days though, it’s not quite such a well-kept secret, but hey, in the spirit of coffee lovers everywhere, it’s good to see people out and about enjoying their favourite drink.

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6. BAR BRUNO

101 Wardour Street, London W1F 0UG

Almost the last man standing from the golden era of the 1960s, Bar Bruno isn’t strictly a coffee shop, but it is a proper café, offering great food at reasonable prices. Family run, it serves a traditional menu, plus a cooked breakfast of champions, washed down by copious cups of proper Italiano coffee. Drop by a little later and you have your cappuccino served with divine meatballs or the popular ragu. Still going strong after all these years.

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7. TONY’S HATCH @ ALL IS JOY

75 Dean Street, London W1D 3SL

Inside the creative hub All is Joy, Tony’s Hatch is more than just a caffeine fix—it’s a slice of Soho history. Tony spent over 35 years serving coffee and sandwiches at the iconic Vogue House before it closed for redevelopment. When plans for a new café fell through, All is Joy offered him a home. Today, with beans supplied by KOFFE (an independent brand founded by his son Riccardo and partner Marco), Tony serves up everything from espressos to snacks, five days a week.

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Final Sip

A parting thought after our Soho mini-tour – shockingly, London is not in fact numero uno when it comes to coffee shops per capita in the UK.  That accolade goes to Brighton, which boasts one for every 800 people, with most being independent. We’re not jealous, but it’s probably just as well the seaside city is only an hour away by train. Not that they have time to sit on their laurels, as it turns out, the champ of champs worldwide is Shanghai. People, we have work to do! Long live the coffee bean—and all seven stops on this Soho caffeine crawl.

Written by Gillian Smith @gillianasmith_

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