TRADE, a members’ club for professionals in the hospitality industry (run by restaurateurs and sommeliers Xavier Rousset and Gearoid Devaney) has announced a new residency that will allow access for non-members. The club has partnered with Mark Jarvis of Anglo to launch Anglo @ Trade.
Our guest reviewer Ava shares her experience on a lunch date with The Soho Girl for a chance to taste Mark’s Michelin-star flavours in a cosy, intimate setting.
We popped in for the lunch service and were greeted with a British menu with a distinct emphasis on the fermented, foraged, and a carefully curated wine list, as you would expect from a club run by two sommeliers.
Straight off, we ordered the five course tasting menu, plus a couple of dishes from the a la carte menu. The simple descriptions perhaps don’t do justice to the delicate dishes. The crab starter is described as ‘Dorset crab, sweetcorn’, which indeed it is, a version of dressed crab with slightly charred sweetcorn and a surprise – popcorn. It is a fun twist and adds an unexpected crunch in much the same way as the toast.
In-season cauliflower made several appearances, first as a fermented dip with buckwheat bread as a starter. Then with the perfectly crisp-skinned seabass – roasted, pureed and raw.
Perfectly pink venison is accompanied by a bread sauce and a sunflower seed paste, which tastes like rich peanut butter. It is dusted with mushroom powder which adds a lovely smoky undertone.
The cheese course was a bowl of pillowy whipped English camembert, with a raison sauce at the bottom, topped with puffed rice, again for that crunch. I haven’t previously had a cheese course presented in this way and it was a delightful novelty.
Next on the tasting menu came the dessert, which was again straightforwardly described as ‘Parsnip, hay, miso, smoke’, it turned out to be the most intriguing dish on the menu. The parsnip was blended into a parfait and paired with miso sauce then presented as shards, interspersed with chocolate ganache pieces and dusted with smoked hay meringue. The parsnip/miso combination took on a banana flavour and the meringue a smoky caramel, a combination that on paper might look doubtful but in actual fact works well. Compelling evidence that Anthony Raffo has the confidence to imagine and execute an unusual combinations of ingredients.
We finished off the tasting menu with a palate-cleansing fermented Granny Smith Apple Sorbet, made with apples from the jars on the shelves beside us.
The staff are welcoming, friendly and very patient when explaining the menu, then each dish when it comes out. It’s worth noting for those who need a place to work that it’s laptop friendly and the coffee and wifi are both excellent.
I can imagine that the quiet lunch service transforms into a buzzy social atmosphere when evening arrives, with comfortable velvet sofas and cosy private nooks, so we make a note to return soon. Can’t wait!
Anglo @ TRADE will be serving an all-day menu of simple yet refined small plates, plus à la carte dishes and a five-course tasting menu for £55.
Head chef Anthony Raffo
Taking the reins in the kitchen is newly appointed head chef Anthony Raffo. Anthony has been working in the industry for over 16 years now, beginning his career washing the pots and working his way up the ladder to more recently heading up the kitchen in the likes of Texture, Pied a Terre, Stocks Hotel and Auberge du Lac.
When he’s not on the pass, Anthony can be found foraging ingredients around the UK, identifying wild edibles to use in his dishes.
23 Frith Street, London W1D 4RR
TRADE members’ opening hours:
Monday-Saturday: 11am to 3am.
Reservations can be made on 020 7434 1724 or firstname.lastname@example.org
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