In light of The Soho Society‘s urgent appeal to save the community’s much loved ‘last traditional deli’, I Camisa & Son facing permanent closure after Christmas, we’re shining a spotlight on other heritage businesses of Soho in hopes of rallying some spending power in these independent businesses iconic to Soho. West End resident, Labour Cllr in Soho, Mayfair & Fitzrovia Jessica Toale shares more…
Soho Is Open
Soho has had many faces – from farmland and fashionable suburb of the aristocracy to the world-famous entertainment district it is today. It has been the centre of waves of French, Italian and Greek migration to London, and a place where makers and creators have lived for centuries. It gained notoriety for its place as a home for gangsters and the sex industry, and most recently it has become the indisputable heart of the gay community. There are glimpses of this vibrant past on almost every corner. And today, this distinctive history is etched into its streets and colourful shop fronts.
Soho is undoubtedly an area that has been at the heart of change – and it has embraced this change. Its unique mix of residents, businesses and visitors have created a dynamic character unrivalled by any other part of London.
But the area’s popularity, its centrality and ever-changing nature does pose a threat to some of the more long-standing businesses – and particularly traditional retail outlets. Old photos of Soho show a buzzing market on Berwick Street, which has been operating since 1778. Today it is a shadow of its former self. Several fabric shops have gone out of business, and most recently, the owners of Ryness on Old Compton Street made the decision to shut their doors. These establishments will have closed for different reasons – changes in consumer trends, personal circumstances and the popularity of internet shopping – however there are real concerns that rising commercial property rents are making it uneconomical for anything other than drinking and dining in Soho.
Times of course change – but the diversity on offer in Soho is worth preserving. Cities thrive when they have a mix of uses. Instead, we risk creating a monoculture. Ensuring that Soho remains a mixed community of residents, businesses, and visitors is in all our interests.
This is most simply done by choosing to frequent Soho’s older establishments and shop locally – and encouraging others to do so. It also means making the case for diversity in our neighbourhood in the face of pressure to conform. And I have no doubt that the community in Soho is up to this task!
Heritage Businesses of Soho
Algerian Coffee Stores
With its distinctive red shopfront and striped awning on Old Compton Street, Algerian Coffee Stores has been open since 1887. It is the oldest coffee shop in London. You can find teas and coffees from around the world, as well as pick up an espresso or cappuccino. The shop has been run by the same family since 1946.
Maison Bertaux | L’Escargot
Established in 1871, Maison Bertaux on Greek Street serves up delectable French Patisseries made in-house. Usually full to bursting, the shop recently launched a fundraiser to help cover its costs. Another ancient French establishment is L’Escargot, founded in 1896. It is the oldest French restaurant in London and was the first one to serve snails in England as a delicacy.
Admiral Duncan
The crown jewel in Old Compton Street’s gay community is The Admiral Duncan. Open since the 1830s, it has history as colourful as the pride flag that adorns its frontage. In the 1920s and 30s it was a hub for the Sabini gang and the site of a mass brawl with their rivals the Hoxton gang. In 1953 Bob Dylan lost the only copy of his radio drama there. And in 1999 it survived a bombing which sadly took the lives of three, an unborn baby and injured 79 people.
I Camisa & Sons | Bar Italia
This was London’s first real Italian food store. It was opened by two brothers back in 1929 at 66 Old Compton Street. It remains a treasure trove of Italian food items in the heart of Soho. Another remnant of Soho’s Italian community is Bar Italia, opened on Frith Street in 1949 by the Polledri family, who still run it today.
Other Notables:
- House of St Barnabas – Opened in 1862 as a pioneering homeless charity and place of refuge. It now provides a social enterprise programme and operates as a private members’ club.
- The Old Coach & Horses – Watering hole since the 1800s, still a popular haunt today.
- Hamleys – The oldest toy shop in the world! It opened in High Holborn in 1760 but moved to a Regent Street home in 1881 where it remains today.
- Ronnie Scott’s – Open since 1959, Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club feels like it has had a place in Soho since time immemorial. It paved the way for American jazz in the UK.
- Milroy’s – London’s oldest whiskey shop, based on Greek Street opened in 1964.
#SaveCamisa Petition
Save I Camisa & Son, Last Original Italian Deli in Soho petition
“I Camisa and Son has operated in Soho since the 50’s and is the last traditional Italian Deli in Soho much loved by residents, chefs and people from all over London.
Business is not yet back to pre-pandemic levels but the freeholder wants the rent back to where it used to be and this means the business will now close.
We are asking for the freeholder (Shaftesbury), the business and the council to meet to see if there is a way to save this historic business. Sign here if you think they should.”
I Camisa & Son featured in My Soho Times ‘Soho Is Open’ campaign during lockdown
“During the lockdown periods, I Camisa was a lifeline for those in the community and beyond who’d make coming into Soho part of their daily exercise routine. When the Supermarkets run out of certain cupboard essentials it was I Camisa I turned to, and I still enjoy their wide range of Italian produce and friendly service.”
Kai Lutterodt, Soho resident and founder of My Soho Times.
Share your thoughts in the comment box below!
Written by Jessica Toale | @jessica.toale
Read more from Jessica Toale on My Soho Times:
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This article was originally published in the Autumn issue of My Soho Times.
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